Remove completely the band clamps for the rear rubber couplers on the carbs.
Loosen the band clamps for the front rubber couplers only on the carb end.
The air filter box frame mounting bolts must be removed so the filter and air box can move rearward about 1/2 inch or so.
Remove throttle cables, disconnect bottom hoses and fuel line.
Disconnect engine breather hose and move it out of the way.
Work the rear rubber couplers off the carbs at the rear.
Fold the bottom of them in on itself so the rear of the carbs may move down.
Twist the carb bank down in the rear and pull them back out of the front rubber couplers simultaneously. The rear couplers will crush some with the band clamps gone.
Once the carbs are out of the front couplers work the bank sideways out the left side of the bike mashing the rear couplers out of the way as needed. The rear rubber couplers are thin wall, more compliant, and flop around way more than the front ones. With them yielding, and the 1/2 to 3/4 inch gain from moving the air and filterbox rearward, you get just enough room the get the carb bank out.
Going back in is pretty much the reverse. Using a wedge or tying the air plenum and filter box rearward eases installation. Leave those rear band clamps completely off the bike. Push the carb bank in from the left side and work them across, almost ignoring the rear rubber couplers until the carbs are aligned with the front couplers. Then wiggle them home into the front rubber couplers.
I use a dull pointed “L” shaped scriber to guide the rear rubber couplers onto the rear carb throat nipples in the same fashion tires are mounted onto rims.
Push the air/filter box forward and reinstall all the band clamps on front and rear of carbs.
Reinstall filterbox fame mount bolts.
Reinstall throttle cables.